Seiko Club Singapore

I prefer to use manual mode. I control exposure manually using my experience instead of letting camera auto pilot. I like to over expose my pics a bit and adjust using post processing software if necessary.

@christcentro & TheChef bro,

Pt to note:-
- Shutter speed is fast enough not to cause camera shake in photos
- Manual mode will be prefer due to control exposure manually

What would you suggest the Manual mode setting for the below event.

Indoor:-
what ISOxxx to set to?
Shutter speed?
f/1.8 for portrait and f/8 for group shot.

Outdoor:-
what ISOxxx to set to?
Shutter speed?
f/1.8 for portrait and f/8 for group shot.

Restaurant:-
what ISOxxx to set to?
Shutter speed?
f/1.8 for portrait and f/8 for group shot.

Night shot:-
what ISOxxx to set to?
Shutter speed?
f/1.8 for portrait and f/8 for group shot.

What camera and lens are you using? What is the lighting condition? Using flash? Using tripod?

TheChef wrote:What camera and lens are you using? What is the lighting condition? Using flash? Using tripod?

Nikon D5200, Nikon 35mm f/1.8 prime lens, external flash with tripod.
I would say room light

There is no hard and fast rule.

Generally, I may set to the following:

Indoor and restaurant:-
Don't use flash for portrait if possible. If you need to use flash, make sure you diffuse the light to make it as natural as possible. Shutter speed should be at least 1/70s, as you are using 35mm. Use as low ISO as possible to reduce noise. Not more than ISO1600 for your camera, but preferably below ISO800.

Outdoor:-
Don't use flash. Shutter speed can easily dial to 1/100s or faster. Use low ISO. ISO400 or below should be good enough.

Night shot:-
Don't bother taking portrait or group shot. It won't look good anyway.

@TheChef,

Which one will u use for focus mode

1) Single-point AF Mode

2) Dynamic AF Mode = Number of AF points: 9, 21, 39 and 39 (3D-tracking)

3) Auto-area AF Mode

Depends on the situation bro.

Single point AF is for static subjects.
Dynamic AF is for moving subjects.
Auto area is for focussing on nearest subject. Good for photographing flying objects against wide open spaces. I use this mode as my camera does not have dynamic AF.

Best is try it out on your own and see what works for you.

The upcoming Panny LX100 looks interesting for beginner and amateur who might not want to invest in a huge array of lens and body.

~~~Delivered personally by the minions~~~

TheChef wrote:Depends on the situation bro.

Single point AF is for static subjects.
Dynamic AF is for moving subjects.
Auto area is for focussing on nearest subject. Good for photographing flying objects against wide open spaces. I use this mode as my camera does not have dynamic AF.

Best is try it out on your own and see what works for you.

I have try Single point AF for portrait to have DOF, but which mode is better for group shot?? Auto area AF mode?

I will use single point. Set aperture to F8.

try out at home with all light on at living room & kitchen.
shot taken with D5200 & 35mm f/1.8G under Aperture mode with f/8.0, Auto ISO not above 800 & shutter not below 1/10s. All photo taken under RAW file and direct convert without any adjustment.
I prefer without external flash. may i have your view and comment...

1/15s & Auto (ISO 720)


1/60s & Auto (ISO 800) with external flash


1/15s & Auto (ISO 560)


1/60s & Auto (ISO 400) with external flash

Hi Wade

Any reason to use 1/15 sec? If you were shooting people, minimumly use 1/60 cos even if you dont cause camera shake, the people will move.

Use bounce flash whenever possible.

I hope you are not the main photographer for the wedding, you will need more practice first.

chriscentro wrote:Hi Wade
Any reason to use 1/15 sec? If you were shooting people, minimumly use 1/60 cos even if you dont cause camera shake, the people will move.
Use bounce flash whenever possible.
I hope you are not the main photographer for the wedding, you will need more practice first.

just try out and not sure which shutter speed is suitable?
I using the flash with the cover siting next to the flash; or should I use the internal tool instead of cover as show at pic?

Wade wrote:

chriscentro wrote:Hi Wade
Any reason to use 1/15 sec? If you were shooting people, minimumly use 1/60 cos even if you dont cause camera shake, the people will move.
Use bounce flash whenever possible.
I hope you are not the main photographer for the wedding, you will need more practice first.

just try out and not sure which shutter speed is suitable?
I using the flash with the cover siting next to the flash; or should I use the internal tool instead of cover as show at pic?

I find those flash diffuser cover quite useless as it is too small to soften the light.
If I use flash, I would bounce it and sometimes pull out the white card (pull out from the flash) to "throw" some light forward.
Maybe this youtube video will help you understand better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTlBpNrxNLk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Bookmarked.
Read if i ever get a dslr again.
Very gd!

2nd try using manual mode with f/8, 1/80s & ISO800 without room light.
i need your comment to improve my skill as much as possible...

1/80s & ISO800


1/80s & ISO800 with flash on, pull out white card & bounced direct to the ceiling


1/80s & ISO800


1/80s & ISO800 with flash on, pull out white card & bounced direct to the ceiling

Hi Wade

At home, no need to use ISO 800, go re-shoot at ISO 200 with bounce flash.

ivan wrote:Bookmarked.
Read if i ever get a dslr again.
Very gd!

zhun bo? how to bookmark ah?

have been taking watches photos everyday until sian, hopefully I can go out and do some real "shooting" today.
Shot this last evening, only have time for one shot

f/8.0, 1/80s & ISO200 with bounce flash. I notice that the light have been soften.

ya, not as bright, can dial in some more power on the flash unit or lower shutter speed to 1/50 - 1/60 secs. Btw, your flash is the 900 or 700 series?