lunarin79 wrote:roo7 wrote: Just like they don't recommend to hand wind an eta movement.
i din noe this??
best not to handwind a ETA?
not even a 2824?
I remember roo bro saying abt this while we were at redhill market there..
jus a google;
http://forums.watchuseek.com/f2/want-mo ... 44696.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
*extract;
Hand winding an automatic will eventually damage the click wheel(s).
The rotor is geared down from the rotor to the mainspring, meaning many turns of the rotor are needed to turn the mainspring gear once around. Reverse the flow and what do you get...geared up of course...
When you handwind the watch, this gearing down is now geared up, and 1/4 of a turn on the crown, makes the click wheels spin like crazy. They are not designed to withstand this speed or friction, they are designed to work with the slow rotor turns. The click wheels are two parts, the bottom half is connected to the mainspring gear, and the top half connects to the Rotor. If you remove the rotor the damage issue is gone, since the complete click wheels turn while handwinding and the wheels are locked together, it's when the rotor is attached that the click wheel bottom half freewheels and the clutches are getting spun around and get damaged.
I see this type of damage all the time, if you handwind constantly, then eventually you will hear and feel the rotor spinning due to the click wheels failing...it's a well documented fact. Click wheels are anywhere from $30 and up...as long as they are available. This is why most Japanese automatics, do not have the capability for handwinding.
There is nothing wrong with s-l-o-w-l-y handwinding an automatic a few turns to get it started when you first put it on, anything beyond this, and your damaging the watch.
RG
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read also;
http://forums.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?t=565378" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
